God loves everyone 1 February 2013Posted by elfringham in christian, religion.
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About ten years ago my husband and I were delighted to become Godparents to the child of some old college friends, and co-Godparent with their close friend who happens to be a lesbian Christian. We had no problem with this, but I’m ashamed to say it wasn’t something I particularly advertised among my Christian friends back at home in our reasonably evangelical church.
There, at about the same era of our lives, I heard at least one sermon deliberately advertised as and preached against homosexuality. I still have the notes that went with it somewhere on file upstairs. I couldn’t agree with it, but somehow felt unable to argue against it, through lack of knowledge and lack of nerve.
Recently I mentioned on Facebook Sara Miles’ autobiographical ‘Take this bread’ as being ministry changing. A friend rang me some days later having bought and read the book. She commented that she…
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Scanning colour film negatives 1 February 2013Posted by elfringham in digikam, photography.
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A very timely post for me. This is the best open software for Linux for inverting images scanned from negatives that I have found. It is much better than the inbuilt function in xsane.
While digiKam is first and foremost an application for processing and organizing digital photos, it also features tools for working with film negatives.
Before you can process negatives in digiKam, you need to digitize them. If you don’t have access to a film scanner or a lab that offers film scanning services, you can digitize film using a DSLR camera (there are plenty of tutorials on how to do that on the Web). The rest of the process assumes that you are using the latter way to digitize film negatives.
Open a RAW file containing a film negative in the editor (choose Tools → Image Editor or press F4). Crop the original file and apply lens correction if necessary. Choose then Color → Invert to transform the negative into a positive image. In case you work with the color negative, the converted image most likely requires some additional tweaking…
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Holey water pipes batman! 16 April 2010Posted by elfringham in volvo.
Tags: 1800s, alternator, cooling system, exhaust, freeze plug, rust, volvo
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I gave up on getting a later exhaust bracket as no one wanted to sell me one. Instead I just bent my original bracket back how it was and refitted it. I removed the freeze plug that was not fitted properly. It cracked very easily and so must have been rotten with rust. The replacement went home so easily that I decided to do the other three as well, they were all quite crusty as well so I was glad that I decided to remove them. Now I have one new fitted freeze plug and three empty holes waiting to have theirs fitted. I am going to try and flush out some of the crud that fell off the freeze plugs as they were removed before I fit the new ones though.
It looks like the Motorola alternator I bought 2nd hand late last year will actually fit OK with just a shorter bolt, no need for a spacer. At least that’s what the measurements I took tonight suggest. So now I have a plan to move forward with which is a big relief. Apart from actually fitting it I also need to source the correct voltage regulator. There are differing opinions about whether or not a Bosch regulator will work with a Motorola alternator but I think I’d like to have it correct.
Unfortunately while cleaning up the water pipe that goes from the head to the oil cooler, I found that it had a rust hole in it. As these are NLA new I asked Brookhouse Volvo to get me a good used one. Apparently they went through 5 pipes before they found me a good one.
Tin worm 21 February 2010Posted by elfringham in volvo.
Tags: 1800s, exhaust, rust, volvo
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I pulled the bracket off the gearbox that is for supporting the exhaust, it had obviously been crudely bent. I straightened it up, repainted it and then refitted it. It is now orientated so that I can attach a bracket to the Simonz exhaust which will secure to this bracket. The only problem with it is that now it interferes with the cross member to support the gear box which will no longer fit in place. After some more intensive research I think the bracket was actually correct as it was, before I ‘straightened’ it. So now I need to source a bracket for a later car that should work for me. While I was under the car pondering on the bracket I removed some of the flaky underseal from the main frame rail that runs from the cross member that is under the drivers feet and on up the firewall into the engine bay. This revealed the true sorry state of it all, a patchwork of poorly done repairs that are all now rotten with tin worm. This will have to be sorted before the car can be driven again. I did refit the oil cooler with a new O ring to seal against the block but I seem to have lost the nut to secure it in place. For the moment I have another in its place, but it is too thick to be a permanent replacement. I also noticed a leak from where the smaller pipe enters the water pump, fortunately this should be easy to fix with the manifold currently removed and the coolant drained.
Catch up 13 December 2009Posted by elfringham in volvo.
Tags: 1800s, armrest, cooling system, ebay, freeze plug, interior, oil cooler, paint, painting, volvo
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Well that was the last of the historical posts. From now on the updates will be further apart as I don’t work on the car that often.
I have painted the oil cooler so it is now ready for refitting. I may well leave the freeze plug as is, it’s not causing a problem and the cooling system is not pressurised so I think it will be OK. I’ll make a final decision when I go to refit the oil cooler.
I bought some more bits from the guy selling stuff near me. A pair of used rear wheel arch vinyl covers as mine are rotten, a pair of ‘D’ window seals, one new, one good used and a pair of clips for the jack handle in the boot. I also bought a drivers side armrest cover on Ebay. It was advertised as being in the original grain, but of course it isn’t. I’ll probably buy a vinyl repair kit and attempt to repair the armrest I bought and also use this new cover to repair the one currently fitted to the car, I’ll then see which one looks the better.
Drip stopped 13 December 2009Posted by elfringham in volvo.
Tags: 1800s, alternator, exhaust, freeze plug, gearbox, hand brake, oil cooler, volvo
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24th October 2009
Well the gear box drip seems to have stopped. Maybe I just didn’t clean up properly after changing the seal. I certainly hope so. Last weekend I bought some parts from a guy living not too far from me. A NOS hand brake cable, a pair of original arm rests and an alternator. Of the arm rests, the passenger side is not split while the driver side is barely split at all. I’ll have to see if I can do anything to prevent it getting any worse. I have decided to refit the oil cooler so I bought a new O ring to seal it to the block, it may need a coat of paint though. I also sourced a plug to fit on the remote regulator for the alternator but I could only find that from Dave Barton who is in the US. I could have just used three separate spade connectors as most people do but I felt like doing it properly. The main charging feed cable is threaded around the front of the car and awaiting fitting of the alternator. It looks like the rebuilt alternator I bought a couple of years ago is a Motorola unit and should have come with a spacer to get the pulleys to line up correctly. I am going to space it out with some washers until I sort something better out. The alternator I bought last weekend came with a cranked adjusting bracket which is the part I most wanted, the alternator itself is a bit dubious having sat unused for quite a few years and is another Motorola unit so no help in the correct fitting stakes.
Today I spent most of the time fitting the rear half of the Simonz exhaust I bought a while ago. The rearmost rubber hanger was tough to get on. The body bracket seems to be too large a diameter for the hole in the rubber. I had to use a ‘G’ clamp to force it on. There are reports of this part failing prematurely, but stronger alternatives are easily available so it is not a big deal. I spent a while considering how to fit another bracket from the fitting kit. however it turns out that it is for very early cars and is not applicable to mine. I did however find that there is a bracket attached to the gearbox that has been bent out of the way which I will have to straighten. It is clamped in place by the gearbox support bracket so will be a bit of a pain if I have to remove it to straighten it as it will mean supporting the gearbox while the support is removed and that is going to make access difficult.
I need to sort the oil cooler out next as that must go on before I can refit the manifold. I also need to decide if I am going to fix that freeze plug before I refit the manifold. I need to fit the manifold before I can finish the exhaust and I need to finish the exhaust before I fit the alternator as it impedes access to the manifold to down pipe nuts. I’m also going to fit two new hand brake cables. One of the current ones has a completely perished rubber seal and although that could be replaced, I’ll be happier with a new cable.
Clunk 13 December 2009Posted by elfringham in volvo.
Tags: 1800s, axle, brakes, differential, gearbox, propshaft, propshaft bearing, volvo, wheels, wiring
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1st October 2009
Well I fitted the rear wheels as intended but as I rotated them back and forth I noticed a significant clunk each time I reversed the direction of the wheel I was working with at the time. Thinking that the replacement axle was in fact junk I started to strip it all out again and was intending to refit the original axle. I was pretty upset about this and wasn’t really thinking it through. I also went off and ordered a new pinion oil seal to fit in the old axle. Anyway after I got a good way through the removal process I realised that the clunk was actually coming from the gear box and not the axle. So I had to tighten everything back up again. I adjusted the brake shoes so they are close to the drums. The car is now sitting on all four wheels again, something it has not done in over a year. Things still left to do include, tightening propshaft bolts to gear box flange, centre carrier bolts tightening, starter motor bolts, new exhaust, finish alternator conversion and associated rewiring and then refit the manifold. Doesn’t sound too much when you say it quickly now does it? Trying to ignore the drip from the gear box where I replaced the oil seal on the output shaft, ho hum.
Bleeding brakes 13 December 2009Posted by elfringham in volvo.
Tags: 1800s, axle, brakes, paint, rear brakes, springs, volvo
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26th July 2009
I fitted the rear brake backing plates with the new gaskets. I just cleaned up the seal carriers and used them as is for the moment. I then connected up the brake pipe to the rear brakes and removed the clamp that had been on the flexible pipe for about 18 months. I left the joints loose for a week and found brake fluid oozing out when I went back to it today. For good measure I bled the rear brakes out with fresh fluid so they should be good to go now. Unfortunately the dripping brake fluid has taken some of the paint off so I’ll have to touch that up soon but otherwise I am about ready to refit the rear wheels at least long enough to tighten the castle nut on the axle end and then adjust the brake shoes so that they will be close to the inside of the drum as they should be. When disassembling the axle one of the torque rod bolts was very stuck and I used a blow torch on it. This slightly burned the rubber piece that locates the lower spring mount. I bought a pair of these rubber pieces on eBay and replaced the burned one today as well. I jacked the axle up and then put spring clamps on the spring, then lowering the axle again took the pressure off the mount enough to change it over. This was all a bit nerve wracking as I don’t like working with suspension springs under tension but went OK in the end.
Shims 13 December 2009Posted by elfringham in volvo.
Tags: 1800s, axle, generator, paint, volvo, wiring
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10th April 2009
I have cleaned up the shims that set the end play on the rear axle. There are some either side and they fit behind the brake backing plates. I also cleaned up the spacers that go in front of the backing plates but in the process of removing the gaskets that sit either side of these spacers I damaged the paint on the backing plates. So I touched that up but now I need to get new gaskets. I also need to decide what to do about the seal carrier as they are a bit rusty, I’m just not sure what the best way of finishing them will be. Last week I continued on removing the insulating tape and then the braided cloth covering as well from the wiring loom that went to the generator. This loom runs from the generator, through the front bulkhead and along above the radiator before passing back through the bulkhead and back along the nearside wing, past the fuse box and on round to the starter motor. Curiously enough I found some disconnected wires in amongst the others. A couple of these could well have been to drive the second horn which seems to have been rewired at some point using additional wires. I’ll join those horn wires into the harness to make it a bit neater there. I think I’ll use cable ties to keep it tight around the points where wires join/leave and then the spiral binding to keep it neat.
Spiral binding 12 December 2009Posted by elfringham in volvo.
Tags: 1800s, alternator, brake drums, cooling system, freeze plug, rear brakes, volvo
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21st February 2009
I bought the blanking plate for the head to seal off the feed to the oil cooler, but I need to get some gasket material to use with it and it also needs painting. I also bought an inlet ring and a freeze plug. I removed the rear brake backing plates that I had put in place so that I could get at the rear bearings. After a bit of an effort I managed to get the axle half shafts free, using the brake drums as a slide hammer. There was not enough space to use a real slide hammer. I put fresh grease into the rear bearings, the stuff in there was old and probably diluted with gear oil as it was quite runny. I’ll have to keep an eye on it and see if the inner grease seal needs to be replaced. I started to peel off the insulation tape that is wrapped around the wiring loom so that I can re-wire for the alternator. The braided covering underneath is in quite poor condition. I ordered some new cable and terminals to cope with the higher charging current that the alternator will supply as well as some spiral binding.