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Too tight 29 November 2009

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31st December 2007

I changed the oil seal on the OD output yesterday. Not too bad a job. The nut holding the flange in place is a castle nut with a split pin holding it in place so it was not torqued up too tightly and the flange just came off in my hand. I tapped the new seal in place using a couple of socket extensions through the propshaft tunnel. Lining the castle nut up to the holes was the hardest part of the whole job, I initially torqued it up too tight and could not get to the next slot and then had to undo it. The impact wrench had a bit of trouble then due to the slop in the extensions absorbing the energy but reordering them sorted that. I also tightened up the flange on the replacement diff, I don’t think I got to 200 ftlbs but it is certainly on tight!

Flange removed from differential

Flange replaced with new oil seal fitted

Zerk fitting 29 November 2009

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20th December 2007

The replacement axle feels better to me so I fitted the new pinion seal to it. Now I just have to do the swap! I have also done the universal joints in the prop shaft. These caused me quite a bit of concern as they seem very tight when put back together. However the two ones I did first have eased up nicely and I assume the last one will as well. The first time I put the first UJ together it was tight and I undid it to check it which meant cleaning it all out and regreasing it. It went back together just the same but eased while I did the second. I ended up doing the third one twice as well due to getting it 90 degrees wrong which meant that the zerk fitting was fouling the arm on the prop shaft. The new centre support bearing and carrier is in place, that all went easily having undone the big nut while the prop shaft was in the car. I just need to put some fresh molybdenum sulphide grease on the sliding joint and fit the new protective bellows and the prop shaft will be all set to refit. However before that goes back in I’ll need to do the axle swap and also change the oil seal on the output of the overdrive as that is also leaking. The OD flange should not be as hard as the differential except for the fact that you can’t get tools on it directly as there is not enough room before the prop shaft tunnel starts.

Out of line 29 November 2009

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5th November 2007

I drove the car a bit more over the summer which was good although it still sounds a bit rough and I noticed noise coming from the drivetrain as well. I now have the car up on jack stands. The new impact wrench undid the pinion flange with no bother at all. When I removed the old oil seal I felt that the pinion had a bit too much movement in it which I thought might be the cause of the drivetrain noise. So I now have a spare rear axle on hand and I will see what the movement of the pinion is like on that one. I also intend to replace all the universal joints and centre bearing and carrier on the propshaft so that came out as well. I undid the big nut on the propshaft before removing it but I had to remove the starter and jam a screwdriver into the ring gear to do it. The centre bearing carrier was rotten and had torn through almost half way round. The rubbber gaiter protecting the sliding joint was missing and to cap it all the sliding joint had been put back together 90 degrees out of line which may have been the cause of the drivetrain noise. Some serious rust found in the front chassis members which may well need sorting before the next MOT. Maybe I’ll save up for a MIG welder.

Plastic bowl 29 November 2009

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12th May 2007

The saga of the pinion oil seal continues. I ordered the new seal and was then a bit concerned as it did not look like the one that is currently installed but it turns out the design was updated so that is OK. A couple of weeks ago I made the counter hold lever from some angle iron and had a go at undoing the nut. I couldn’t shift it so I put a jack under the breaker bar. This then bent the angle iron and one of the bolts tore out of its hole. I tried again the next day with a bit more metal separating the bolt holes on the angle iron from the edge but it had the same result. I am now the owner of a new DeWalt cordless impact wrench and will try again at some point. Last weekend was a meeting in Basingstoke, primarily for Amazons but all Volvos were welcome and so we took the 1800 along. It was the only 1800 there which quite surprised me. Unfortunately the engine started to sound a bit rough during the trip there. It did however get us there and back OK. Oh well, something else to fix I guess. There was a missing clip on the passenger side headlight bowl which meant that there was no way to secure the chrome trim ring in place although it was reasonably firm fit. I did however decide it was time to fix it so I ordered a replacement plastic bowl from Amazon Cars and have just fitted it.

Dripping 29 November 2009

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24th March 2007

I had booked an MOT for 12:10pm today so at about 11:00am I headed out to the garage to start it up and get the battery charged. I used booster cables to hook up to my 240 to charge the battery for a while before I attempted to start it. I got the engine started on about the third attempt which was when I found that the clutch had seized again. I got the car out of the garage on the starter and let it warm up the engine while I had occasional attempts to unseize the clutch. It took quite a few tries before I finally broke it free and I did not have much time left before the MOT appointment. The MOT went fairly smoothly with just a headlight needing adjusting and an advisory for a seatblet beginning to fray. I did have a bit of a worry when I saw a liquid dripping from the car when it was up on the ramp but I eventually realised it was just the screen wash from the wipers test. So I now have a shiny new MOT certificate, the insurance and tax disc were also renewed last month so it is all road legal again. The pinion seal definitely needs replacing and sooner rather than later as there was quite a pool of oil from where it sat and dripped all winter. This is not an easy job as the torque required to undo the nut on the flange is quite high indeed, so you need a robust way to stop the flange rotating.

No leaks 29 November 2009

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18th October 2006

Well I finally got to finishing the brake lines off with the correct fittings this past weekend. It all went relatively smoothly and I could not induce any of the joints to leak even with booster pressure. I also tightened up all the suspension bushing bolts as I had left them loose until I got the car at normal ride height. Finally it was all done and we went for a short ride in it. It felt a lot better than previously and the annoying clunk had completely disappeared. Oh yes, I found that the diff had almost no oil in it so I filled it up. There is now a drip from the front of the diff suggesting that the pinion oil seal needs replacing. At least the engine started easily after its long rest.

Stripped threads 29 November 2009

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Near side rear brakes

Painted hub in place

1st October 2006

Yesterday I assembled the rear brakes as can be seen above. My attempts at reassembling brake shoes on other cars had led me to dread this operation but having read the Volvo service manual it turned out to be quite easy after all. I also read the instructions on creating double flares which turned out to be quite simple if a little fiddly. So I made the brake lines for each side of the rear axle but left the fitting for today. Well the fitting of the new brake lines did not go well at all. The near side line, which is the shorter of the two, seemed to go OK and made me feel as if the job would be not too hard but the problems started with the offside line. First of all the junction block is very close to the differential meaning that the brake line has to bend up very close to the fitting which is not easy to do. Then as I was tightening the fitting into the brake cylinder it stripped the threads. This end of the line bent sharply close to the fitting and by the time I had cut off the flare I could not get the flaring tool and the fitting in the space so that meant making a new line during which I managed to forget to put the fitting on one end of the line before I made the flare. Fortunately I managed to cut the flare off leaving enough space this time for the fitting and flare tool. As I was fitting this second new line I noticed that there was a copper colour in the bottom of the brake cylinder hole. When I removed the old line it had sheared off the flare which meant the new line did not seat properly which was why it stripped the threads. So off came the hub again and I removed the cylinder from the backing plate and then I could dig out the flare and then put it all back together again. This time the fitting tightened up OK. Having been filled anew with confidence I decided to tackle the lines from the engine bay to the rear. I managed to reuse most of the junked rear line for the connection from the engine bay junction block to the proportioning valve without any major problems. Finally, or so I thought, I started work on the long line from the proportioning valve to the rear flexible hose. This also went relatively smoothly. Then I noticed brake fluid dripping from the off side of the rear junction block so I attempted to tighten the fitting and managed the strip the threads. So I cut the flare off, removed the stripped fitting and made a new flare, then cut that flare off, put a new fitting on and then made another flare. This was particularly galling as I did not want to disturb the brake cylinder end of the line so I did it in situ which makes a fiddly job even worse. I was still not happy with the seating of the lines in the junction block and after removal and carful checking it seems that I should have been using a shorter fitting without a lead in to connect to the junction block to get more threads in contact. I put the fittings I had in and tightened them gingerly to hold it for now and then went and ordered the correct parts.

Double flares 29 November 2009

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26th September 2006

I painted the brake drums with high heat paint which turned out to be a very matt black, I had expected it to be gloss but never mind. I disconnected the shock absorbers again and dropped the axle until the prop shaft was resting on the bottom of the tunnel in an attempt to remove the springs and seats but that was not enough. I gave the axle a going over with a wire brush until I got bored, which did not take too long, and then slapped some Hammerite over it. Having reconnected the shock abosrbers I just need to reassemble the brakes and hubs etc and tighten up all the bushings bolts and I could be driving the car again. Of course that also includes replacing the hard brake lines which will mean learning how to do double flares which could be interesting. It looks like an old repair failed to replace the captive nut for the axle limiting strap on the off side which is why they were missing from my car. So it looks like a quick trip to the welder may be on the cards to get that sorted.

Painted mounts 29 November 2009

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23rd September 2006

The support arms are back in the car which took a bit of fiddling to get the bolt holes lined up. The shock absorber mounts got painted during the week and the shock absorbers are now in and I have sanded down the brake drums in preparation for painting them. The spring supports will probably wait until I do the springs which will be at a later date. I am getting impatient to drive the car again. If I have enough time tomorrow I will paint the brake drums and sand down the rest of the axle but that may be a bit optimistic.

Cleaning up 29 November 2009

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16th September 2006

OK the rear brake fitting kit includes the correct number of those caps, it was just that my car was missing the ones from the inner ends of the springs. The support arms got painted last weekend and the new bushings fitted. I spent half the day today cleaning up the rear brake backing plates etc and then painting them. I also painted the axle end mounting points for the support arms. The body end mouting points just got a spray of undercoat. I bought a pair of genuine Volvo rear shock absorbers which I will fit once the support arms are back in place and can hold the axle in check. I think new springs may be on the cards but not yet although I will clean and paint the lower supports when I change the shock absorbers.