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One screw missing 12 December 2009

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14th February 2009

I put the starter motor back in its place a couple of weeks ago but I have not tightened the bolts up yet.┬áThe prop shaft went in the same time as the axle and I tightened the big nut holding the centre bearing in place before I replaced the starter. I have not fitted the new nuts and bolts at each end of the prop shaft yet. Today I drained the coolant from the engine and removed the oil cooler. When I bought the car it had one screw missing from the valve cover and when I removed the oil cooler, there was a screw lodged behind it which I think must have been the original valve cover screw. On removal of the feed pipe I found the remains of an ‘O’ ring that had disintegrated and fallen into the oil cooler. I think I managed to get all the parts of it out. I have a replacement shorter oil filter spigot and the simpler bottom radiator hose without the extra connection from the oil cooler but I don’t have a good way to remove the longer spigot that is used with the oil cooler. Also I cannot find the blanking plate I need to seal off where the feed pipe attaches to the head so I may just refit the oil cooler for the present once I have given it a good flush. I found the alternator and voltage regulator I intend to use amongst my boxes of spares that I have bought,┬ámany ‘just in case’ but some, such as the alternator and regulator, were actually bought with a plan in mind.

Grit in my eye 12 December 2009

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31st December 2008

Progress has been slow as usual but it has been happening. The rear axle is back under the car and the trailing arms and torque rods are connected. While doing this I decided to redo the paint on the panhard rod mount on the body. I only managed to get one coat of hammerite on it before I got some grit in my eye. By the time that was sorted out it was too late to put a second coat on immediately and I have to wait six weeks for the first coat to cure properly. With the cold weather I am probably going to give it a bit longer as well. I had given up on getting an alternator bracket from Scandcar so I bought an IPD version from eBay, whereupon Scandcar got back in touch and sent another bracket which has now arrived. So I now have two alternator brackets to choose from. The IPD version is the nicer of the two so I’ll probably go with that one.

Freeze plug 12 December 2009

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24th August 2008

I should have mentioned that while cleaning up the manifold gasket surface that I noticed the freeze plug on #2 cylinder does not look particularly secure. It is at an angle with one edge practically coming out of the boss. I prepped and painted the axle tunnel over the last couple of days which is a great relief. All that exposed metal was making me quite anxious.

Insecure freeze plug

Sheared off 12 December 2009

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16th August 2008

I got the rear nut off with a nut splitter and then removed the manifold from the engine so that I could work on replacing the studs. I sheered off the last remaining stud even after freezing it and applying heat and oil. So I had to drill out the studs. I bought a set of left handed drill bits in the hope that while drilling the studs out the left handed action would encourage the studs to unscrew but no luck there. Two of the holes were rescued by running a tap down but the third suffered from having too large a drill bit used on it and needed a thread insert.While I had good access I replaced the braided oil pressure gauge line, the old one was in quite a poor state as the braiding had frayed at one end. I then noticed that one of the rings that locates the inlet manifold to the head was missing so I’ll have to source one of those before the manifold is replaced. I moved the exhaust out of the way and found that it separated from the down pipe quite easily. I then managed to disconnect the front box from the middle pipe again with surprising ease. The back box was so rotten that it would have disintegrated before coming off so I cut it free with a hacksaw, keeping the middle pipe intact. I removed all the studs from the head with no incident and cleaned up the mating surface where some of the old gasket had stuck. I should now be able to get back to sorting out the rear axle tunnel.

Popped right off 12 December 2009

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25th May 2008

I removed the rubber bump stops from the top spring mounts by the simple expedient of simply pushing on them with a foot, they popped right off. I then cut the securing bolt off with the angle grinder. I bought a range of brushes for my drill and grinder to tackle the rust and have been doing so on and off, even so the spring mounts are not easy to do at all. It occured to me today that I could simply (!) remove the exhaust for the moment as with the axle out the whole system can be removed as one piece without the need to spearate the constituent parts which woould be nigh on impossible due to age and rust issues. So I started trying to undo the nuts joining the manifold to the down pipe. I soon realised that this is not an easy job at all. I decided to remove the generator to get more access. I could either remove the bracket from the block or remove the generator from the bracket. The first way seemed easiest but when I undid one of the bolts I started to get a coolant leak so I then moved to the second method. I now had enough room to get some decent leverage on the two front nuts and so I promptly sheered them both off. The rear nut has been rounded off and I think is going to need a nut splitter to remove. It looks like there is some welding to be done on the chassis member here at the front despite (because of?) it being a patchwork of previous repairs.

Heat gun 12 December 2009

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13th April 2008

Lots more rust and underseal flakes have gone down my arms and neck over the past month. I have now removed the majority of the underseal from the axle area, that is all that I could chip off with a putty knife with a bit of help from a heat gun now and then. I made a start on removing the rust with an angle grinder fitted with a cup shaped wire brush. I am going to need to buy some more different shaped brushes for this as there are a lot of tricky areas that I can’t reach at the moment. Most of the rust is just light surface rust but there are some areas such as the top spring mounts that are quite heavily corroded and of course they are a complicated shape and are going to be the hardest to remove the rust from. Nothing seems to need welding up though which is good news.

Rust flakes 12 December 2009

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14th March 2008

Since my last update of these pages I have removed the old axle and painted the new axle and lower spring mounting cups. I have bought a set of new springs which will be fitted on reassembly. I also started to attack the rusty top spring mounts. While under the car I could not help but notice all the rusty bits that have crept under the under seal. So while the axle is out of the way I resolved to tackle that as well, at least the bit of it that will be difficult to reach once the axle is refitted. So far all I have managed to do though is to shower myself in rust flakes that went down my arms and neck. This is going to be quite a job, I just hope I can get it done before next winter rolls around again.

Too tight 29 November 2009

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31st December 2007

I changed the oil seal on the OD output yesterday. Not too bad a job. The nut holding the flange in place is a castle nut with a split pin holding it in place so it was not torqued up too tightly and the flange just came off in my hand. I tapped the new seal in place using a couple of socket extensions through the propshaft tunnel. Lining the castle nut up to the holes was the hardest part of the whole job, I initially torqued it up too tight and could not get to the next slot and then had to undo it. The impact wrench had a bit of trouble then due to the slop in the extensions absorbing the energy but reordering them sorted that. I also tightened up the flange on the replacement diff, I don’t think I got to 200 ftlbs but it is certainly on tight!

Flange removed from differential

Flange replaced with new oil seal fitted

Zerk fitting 29 November 2009

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20th December 2007

The replacement axle feels better to me so I fitted the new pinion seal to it. Now I just have to do the swap! I have also done the universal joints in the prop shaft. These caused me quite a bit of concern as they seem very tight when put back together. However the two ones I did first have eased up nicely and I assume the last one will as well. The first time I put the first UJ together it was tight and I undid it to check it which meant cleaning it all out and regreasing it. It went back together just the same but eased while I did the second. I ended up doing the third one twice as well due to getting it 90 degrees wrong which meant that the zerk fitting was fouling the arm on the prop shaft. The new centre support bearing and carrier is in place, that all went easily having undone the big nut while the prop shaft was in the car. I just need to put some fresh molybdenum sulphide grease on the sliding joint and fit the new protective bellows and the prop shaft will be all set to refit. However before that goes back in I’ll need to do the axle swap and also change the oil seal on the output of the overdrive as that is also leaking. The OD flange should not be as hard as the differential except for the fact that you can’t get tools on it directly as there is not enough room before the prop shaft tunnel starts.

Out of line 29 November 2009

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5th November 2007

I drove the car a bit more over the summer which was good although it still sounds a bit rough and I noticed noise coming from the drivetrain as well. I now have the car up on jack stands. The new impact wrench undid the pinion flange with no bother at all. When I removed the old oil seal I felt that the pinion had a bit too much movement in it which I thought might be the cause of the drivetrain noise. So I now have a spare rear axle on hand and I will see what the movement of the pinion is like on that one. I also intend to replace all the universal joints and centre bearing and carrier on the propshaft so that came out as well. I undid the big nut on the propshaft before removing it but I had to remove the starter and jam a screwdriver into the ring gear to do it. The centre bearing carrier was rotten and had torn through almost half way round. The rubbber gaiter protecting the sliding joint was missing and to cap it all the sliding joint had been put back together 90 degrees out of line which may have been the cause of the drivetrain noise. Some serious rust found in the front chassis members which may well need sorting before the next MOT. Maybe I’ll save up for a MIG welder.