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Holey water pipes batman! 16 April 2010

Posted by elfringham in volvo.
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I gave up on getting a later exhaust bracket as no one wanted to sell me one. Instead I just bent my original bracket back how it was and refitted it. I removed the freeze plug that was not fitted properly. It cracked very easily and so must have been rotten with rust. The replacement went home so easily that I decided to do the other three as well, they were all quite crusty as well so I was glad that I decided to remove them. Now I have one new fitted freeze plug and three empty holes waiting to have theirs fitted. I am going to try and flush out some of the crud that fell off the freeze plugs as they were removed before I fit the new ones though.

It looks like the Motorola alternator I bought 2nd hand late last year will actually fit OK with just a shorter bolt, no need for a spacer. At least that’s what the measurements I took tonight suggest. So now I have a plan to move forward with which is a big relief. Apart from actually fitting it I also need to source the correct voltage regulator. There are differing opinions about whether or not a Bosch regulator will work with a Motorola alternator but I think I’d like to have it correct.

Unfortunately while cleaning up the water pipe that goes from the head to the oil cooler, I found that it had a rust hole in it. As these are NLA new I asked Brookhouse Volvo to get me a good used one. Apparently they went through 5 pipes before they found me a good one.

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Tin worm 21 February 2010

Posted by elfringham in volvo.
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I pulled the bracket off the gearbox that is for supporting the exhaust, it had obviously been crudely bent. I straightened it up, repainted it and then refitted it. It is now orientated so that I can attach a bracket to the Simonz exhaust which will secure to this bracket. The only problem with it is that now it interferes with the cross member to support the gear box which will no longer fit in place. After some more intensive research I think the bracket was actually correct as it was, before I ‘straightened’ it. So now I need to source a bracket for a later car that should work for me. While I was under the car pondering on the bracket I removed some of the flaky underseal from the main frame rail that runs from the cross member that is under the drivers feet and on up the firewall into the engine bay. This revealed the true sorry state of it all, a patchwork of poorly done repairs that are all now rotten with tin worm. This will have to be sorted before the car can be driven again. I did refit the oil cooler with a new O ring to seal against the block but I seem to have lost the nut to secure it in place. For the moment I have another in its place, but it is too thick to be a permanent replacement. I also noticed a leak from where the smaller pipe enters the water pump, fortunately this should be easy to fix with the manifold currently removed and the coolant drained.

Drip stopped 13 December 2009

Posted by elfringham in volvo.
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24th October 2009

Well the gear box drip seems to have stopped. Maybe I just didn’t clean up properly after changing the seal. I certainly hope so. Last weekend I bought some parts from a guy living not too far from me. A NOS hand brake cable, a pair of original arm rests and an alternator. Of the arm rests, the passenger side is not split while the driver side is barely split at all. I’ll have to see if I can do anything to prevent it getting any worse. I have decided to refit the oil cooler so I bought a new O ring to seal it to the block, it may need a coat of paint though. I also sourced a plug to fit on the remote regulator for the alternator but I could only find that from Dave Barton who is in the US. I could have just used three separate spade connectors as most people do but I felt like doing it properly. The main charging feed cable is threaded around the front of the car and awaiting fitting of the alternator. It looks like the rebuilt alternator I bought a couple of years ago is a Motorola unit and should have come with a spacer to get the pulleys to line up correctly. I am going to space it out with some washers until I sort something better out. The alternator I bought last weekend came with a cranked adjusting bracket which is the part I most wanted, the alternator itself is a bit dubious having sat unused for quite a few years and is another Motorola unit so no help in the correct fitting stakes.

Today I spent most of the time fitting the rear half of the Simonz exhaust I bought a while ago. The rearmost rubber hanger was tough to get on. The body bracket seems to be too large a diameter for the hole in the rubber. I had to use a ‘G’ clamp to force it on. There are reports of this part failing prematurely, but stronger alternatives are easily available so it is not a big deal. I spent a while considering how to fit another bracket from the fitting kit. however it turns out that it is for very early cars and is not applicable to mine. I did however find that there is a bracket attached to the gearbox that has been bent out of the way which I will have to straighten. It is clamped in place by the gearbox support bracket so will be a bit of a pain if I have to remove it to straighten it as it will mean supporting the gearbox while the support is removed and that is going to make access difficult.

I need to sort the oil cooler out next as that must go on before I can refit the manifold. I also need to decide if I am going to fix that freeze plug before I refit the manifold. I need to fit the manifold before I can finish the exhaust and I need to finish the exhaust before I fit the alternator as it impedes access to the manifold to down pipe nuts. I’m also going to fit two new hand brake cables. One of the current ones has a completely perished rubber seal and although that could be replaced, I’ll be happier with a new cable.

Sheared off 12 December 2009

Posted by elfringham in volvo.
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16th August 2008

I got the rear nut off with a nut splitter and then removed the manifold from the engine so that I could work on replacing the studs. I sheered off the last remaining stud even after freezing it and applying heat and oil. So I had to drill out the studs. I bought a set of left handed drill bits in the hope that while drilling the studs out the left handed action would encourage the studs to unscrew but no luck there. Two of the holes were rescued by running a tap down but the third suffered from having too large a drill bit used on it and needed a thread insert.While I had good access I replaced the braided oil pressure gauge line, the old one was in quite a poor state as the braiding had frayed at one end. I then noticed that one of the rings that locates the inlet manifold to the head was missing so I’ll have to source one of those before the manifold is replaced. I moved the exhaust out of the way and found that it separated from the down pipe quite easily. I then managed to disconnect the front box from the middle pipe again with surprising ease. The back box was so rotten that it would have disintegrated before coming off so I cut it free with a hacksaw, keeping the middle pipe intact. I removed all the studs from the head with no incident and cleaned up the mating surface where some of the old gasket had stuck. I should now be able to get back to sorting out the rear axle tunnel.

Popped right off 12 December 2009

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25th May 2008

I removed the rubber bump stops from the top spring mounts by the simple expedient of simply pushing on them with a foot, they popped right off. I then cut the securing bolt off with the angle grinder. I bought a range of brushes for my drill and grinder to tackle the rust and have been doing so on and off, even so the spring mounts are not easy to do at all. It occured to me today that I could simply (!) remove the exhaust for the moment as with the axle out the whole system can be removed as one piece without the need to spearate the constituent parts which woould be nigh on impossible due to age and rust issues. So I started trying to undo the nuts joining the manifold to the down pipe. I soon realised that this is not an easy job at all. I decided to remove the generator to get more access. I could either remove the bracket from the block or remove the generator from the bracket. The first way seemed easiest but when I undid one of the bolts I started to get a coolant leak so I then moved to the second method. I now had enough room to get some decent leverage on the two front nuts and so I promptly sheered them both off. The rear nut has been rounded off and I think is going to need a nut splitter to remove. It looks like there is some welding to be done on the chassis member here at the front despite (because of?) it being a patchwork of previous repairs.

BKV 23 November 2009

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19th June 2006

Went to the VOC National BKV yesterday. I was seduced by some chrome bits from Amazon Cars along with a very nice exhaust system as well so my wallet came away much lighter and the car much heavier. The exhaust system is by Simonz and I am assured will be much easier to fit than the stock system, so here’s hoping. It is also a larger bore than stock which should help the engine breathe a bit more easily and might even release a few more horses, again here’s hoping. Some very nice 1800s there which would have put mine to shame so it is just as well I didn’t take it. I picked up the upper ball joints there and the lower ball joints arrived today so I am just about set to go over the front suspension but I am not in too much of a hurry to do it as it might mean the car is not driveable for a while especially if the lower wishbone is as much of a pain to get off as some other people have experienced. This is quite likely as it is another sleeve over a bolt affair but much bigger than the sway bar link rod, so it will be much harder I expect.